Zanzibar Coffee House- A fantastic corner of authentic Zanzibar

(Tel. 0773 061 532; 0784 24 62 68; 024 223 93 19; coffeehouse@zanlink.com; www.riftvalley-zanzibar.com);

It's early morning; my bed stands next to the window. The opposite house, or should I say palace, has the same long row of door-sized balcony windows. Once all white, they now damaged from countless years of rain. The dirt patterns spreading over all the facade some how adds to the beauty. Who, many years ago, chose the baby blue decorative ribbon of squares and flowers just under the roof? And what business enterprise enabled the original owner to become rich enough to build these massive four and five story houses with dozens of rooms, crowned by roof terraces? These edifices with intriguing numbers of stairs and balconies inside that follow no obvious logic, which nowadays can only be maintain as hotels? Song from a Madrassa on an open terrace reaches my window. There they sit, little girls in white veils all looking alike, taught be a lady teacher in a blue scarf. I can hear the bells of bicycles and scooters squeezing through the narrow alleys below. Early in the morning I was woken by the call of the Muezin, followed then by the crow from numerous cockrels stood atop backyard walls. The building below my window is completely derelict, the roof has long collapsed and big trees now grow out of the ruins. A single big bright yellow flower looks up at me. The smell of coffee wafts up from the street to my window. The Coffee House has opened its doors; its time to get up and climb to the roof top terrace ready for the fabulous Zanzibar Coffee House Breakfast: Cappuccino, as many as you wish, with fresh brightly coloured fruit arranged on dark green banana leaves, freshly baked muffins, croissants and cinnamon rolls, muesli, omelette and waffles - all served by very hospitable and attentive staff.

What makes the Zanzibar Coffee House so special is its authenticity - and its attention to the little details, eg. a personal welcome note, tied to a little bag of heavenly smelling coffee on your bed side table. The style of the house is perfect through and through, finished off by a wonderful collection of coffee accessories in an otherwise simple and light environment. It does not only come as a most beautiful and very friendly place, but also at a very acceptable price – singles cost 50US$ with shared bathroom, or 60US$ en suite, doubles, shared bathroom or en suite, at 70US$ and 85US$ respectively (residents enjoy a 10% discount). There is also an exquisite suite for 120US$. Unfortunately dinner is not yet served. However there is nothing stopping you from buying and carry up to the roof top terrace your own drinks and apero snacks in time for the Muezins' call at sundown. It is an absolutely breathtaking moment – five floors above Stone town, surrounded by the song of a dozen or more Muezins while the night falls over the town. Music here and there flares up, as another tropical night falls over the famous Spice Island.

Coffee served in the Zanzibar Coffee House originates from Utengule Farm in the Rift Valley. On their quality label they quote Talleyrand from the 18th century about coffee: “Black as Devil, Hot as Hell, Pure as Angel and Sweet as Love.” In the coffee house they also sell lovely Coffee tins and presentation packages.

As an alternative and very reasonably priced accommodation in Stone Town comes the Pyramid Hotel (Tel. 024 223 30 00, 0777 46 14 51, 0784 25 55 25, Kokoni; e-mail: pyramidhotel@yahoo.com; When arriving from the ferry turn left at Mercury’s restaurant into the old town, and ask for the way; it is only about 5 Min. walk from the restaurant.) Run by Zanzibaris, in an old five storey building with simple but clean rooms, Zanzibari beds, beautiful Mangrove stem ceilings, a simple but friendly served breakfast on the roof top, it costs only 20US$ a double, including breakfast. There is also a little travel agency included, which can organize reasonably prices spice tours. Another good choice is the Dutch run Clove Hotel (Tel. 0777 48 45 67; clovehotel@zanlink.com, www.zanzibarhotel.nl) not far from Emerson and Green on Hurumzi Street, with singles for about 40US$ and doubles for about 60US$. Lisette, the owner is very helpful in arranging tickets and other services, while the hotel comes practical but a bit plain in terms of decoration and breakfasts.