The Uluguru - A Jewel to Take Care of
The Uluguru are the closest mountains to Dar es Salaam. Despite this they are widely unknown to Tanzanians and internationals living in the metropolis. Why? The Uluguru are stunningly beautiful, and easily accessible. They are also the water castle of Dar es Salaam and a global biodiversity hotspot - both aspects are now under threat. Community based tourism could make a difference. There are hundreds of kilometres of footpaths crisscrossing the Uluguru Mountains. They connect the villages and isolated farmsteads with their fields, and each other. According to this logic, you can design your own hike. Forests, be they plantations or natural ones, are very dense, and you are well advised to enquire as to which are the frequently used path. To set you on your way with we checked a few routes out for you.
Through the Garden Eden
Hike from the forest administration campsite in Bunduki/Vinile to the Hululu Waterfalls and back along the fields of the Wa-Uluguru people on the opposite valley flank (2-3 hours)
To the impressive Hululu waterfalls, return from the Vinile campsite to the main road, and steadily climb up the valley for about 2km, until the road becomes a trail. After another 1km the trail crosses a bridge. Turn left immediately after the bridge, climb up the steep slope along the natural forest border, and when you see the waterfall glancing through the trees, descend an even steeper path to the foot of the fall. To return, you either follow the same route back, or you climb further up the main valley for another couple of kilometres, until you can cross the stream and traverse level on the opposite site of the valley and walk out of the valley along foot paths until you stand high above the campsite, from where you descend. Local farmers will be more than willing to point out the way to you.
In the middle ranges of the Uluguru mountains, everything seems to be grown – glaring green maize; fields over and over with red tomatoes, that people carry in huge baskets on their heads to the local market; sweet wild peaches and prunes, thick banana trees…and in between, well hidden stand the mud huts of the Wa-Uluguru people, a matrilineal tribe of Tanzania. When we passed one of these huts a familiar smell caught our attention: was it coffee? Yes it was! We stuck our head into the hut and shouted “Hodi”, and an elderly lady welcomed us, carefully roasting coffee! Her family had saved some of the coffee plants that only some 30 years ago had covered the slopes of the Uluguru but now have gone. In 1890, Jesuit missionaries in the Uluguru Mountains were the first to grow coffee in Tanzania. They had brought the coffee from La Reunion! We asked the lady if we were allowed to take a picture of her roasting coffee. Yes, she said, but for a fee. In good Tanzanian tradition, we negotiated an acceptable price, and the lady disappeared, only to come back in her best headscarf and pose like a Hollywood star. And of course we left with a few delicious beans in our pockets as emergency food along the way!
Stunning Views
Hike from the forest administration campsite in Bunduki/Vinile to the ridge between North and South Uluguru, the forest reserve, and back along the valley bottom (3-4 hours)
For a slightly longer hike rewarded with great views – on a clear day as far down as Dar es Salaam, start from the Vinile Forest Administration building opposite the campsite (signposted), follow the road that steadily climbs up the slope South (to the right) of to the Community Forest (partly plantation) until you reach the pass in the ridge marking the border between the North and South Uluguru Mountains. On the pass, leave the road, and follow a footpath more or less level along different fields first on the right side of the ridge, then on the left side along an increasingly narrower path and finally climbing up, until reaching after about 2km the boundary of the forest reserve, with some newly planted boundary tree seedlings. Return by descending into the valley ground and walk out until you reach the campsite.
On the day we climbed up through the community forest it was swarming with women and children. It is the day when villagers from places further down where all forests have been cut, are allowed to collect firewood. Only dead wood is allowed – as there is a huge demand and people in their need are inventive, it is not easy to implement these rules, Mr. Mpangala of the forest administration explains to us. And indeed we saw youngsters climbing high up on trees to cut off the last branches of trees that obviously had died of the effect of lower branches being cut off. Therefore the administration with the community has set strict regulations: collection is only allowed on two days, and only by girls and women. “They are far less destructive than men”, Mr. Mpangala laughingly admitted. The Uluguru Forests form part of the Eastern Arc Mountains and are thus not only essential for the water supply of Morogoro, the surrounding villages and the water castle of the 4 Mio city of Dar es Salaam, but a biodiversity hotspot and thus a heritage of global importance and immeasurable value. The German colonial government established forest reserves that were strictly prohibited to the local population. Later on pressure on the forests increased dramatically, until in the lower regions no forests were left, and only the mountain ridges and summits were still tree covered. The Tanzanian Forest administration in the 1970th then pulled the emergency break and planted many, many kilometres of Eucalyptus trees to form a demarcation line – those who were, and still are caught logging inside these trees, risks to see prison from the inside. So, the forest reserves could be kept more or less under protection, large forests in the North East Ulugurus outside these reserves have completely disappeared over the last 20 years, and with it its streams and rivers that were common to the people of Morogoro when they looked up to their Uluguru mountains. Sadly, on each square metre of former forest, only one or two maize plants are growing. Production is extremely low, and despite the Wa-Uluguru people cultivating ever steeper fields they do not manage to feed their growing population year round and sell surpluses for much needed cash income. The local forest administration, with the support of Care and the Tanzanian Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania WCST try to reverse these trends now. Indeed the forest administration needs support: there are only two trained foresters with one motorbike in charge for the whole Uluguru Forests! One programme component supports local tourism, and therefore the above camping site has been built.
Cool and Beautiful
Hike from Tchenzema to the Lukwangule Plateau (It is possible to climb on the plateau and return to Tchenzema or to cross on the Eastern side of the Uluguru Mountains in a day. Alternatively, camp overnight on the plateau and return or continue the following day)
From the little market in Tchenzema, climb up the trail behind the hill side houses climbing up on the left side and then on the ridge of a well visible spur leading to the forest reserve boundary. All villagers in Tchenzema will easily point out the way to Lukwangule Plateau to you. Follow the well visible path climbing through the forest almost along the fall line, until after 2 to 3 hours climb from the village you step on the open plateau. Follow the path across the plateau, until after about 1km it splits into two. The left one leads to Nyingwa, the right on to Lanzi.
The natural forest you pass through, and even more the ones on the Lukwangule Plateau are fantastic: impassably dense, the ones on the plateau are also wearing beards of mosses in their branches and patches of red parasite plants in the crowns spot the immense canopy. The open landscape is dotted by a special grass building little hills, swampy throughout most of the year, but drying out before the rainy season. Parts are infested by ferns, that grow faster and bigger than everything else when local hunters set fire to the grass to shoot fleeing animals - the anti fire campaigns of the forest administration still has a long way to go. On the way up we met two men with heavy baskets on their heads, full of fresh plums they had collected on the other side of the mountains and were hoping to sell for a better price in Tchenzema. They were not the only one we met: like little caravans, people cross the plateau with loads on their heads or backs from one side to the other, still faster than we ever managed to move. While with the sun approaching the horizon, we had the plateau for ourselves. We climbed up a hill next to the wooded slope and counted the different ridges in ever fainter blue and grey tones towards the horizon – there were almost a dozen.
On our way back from the Lukwangule plateau, we met a farmer carrying home tree stems to renew his pig shed. We came into discussions, and at some point our guide Charles wanted to know it exactly: are the Wa-Uluguru really matrilineal? Yes were we told, land is inherited from the mothers to the daughters, where as men can acquire land only by buying it. True or not, but many of the Wa-Uluguru women we met seemed in their behaviour and expressions to demonstrate a far stronger self confidence than else where in Tanzania, and easily engaged into conversations with hikers. But our interlocutor pointed out another difference, too: Among the Wa-Uluguru, men and women would only have one spouse, and the wide spread polygamy in Tanzania would be largely unknown to them – a fact the ladies of our group rather liked!
Day Hikes from Morogoro: Morning site and Lupanga Peak
Morning site, a semi abandoned hostel of the University, with a great view over Morogoro, used to be a fantastic resort from German Colonial times. It then had been surrounded by dense forests, and a drivable road led all the way up. The road is now in bad shape, and the forest is pushed way above the site, with erosion having left its ugly scares on the intensively farmed steep slopes. Look out for Avocado trees on your way up! If you are lucky you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables on the way, and early morning dozens of women will meet you descending carrying on their heads heavy baskets of banana to the market! Also catch a glimpse into the local school half way up – there is hardly any furniture! Last time on our way up we met crowds of school children with machetes on their way to school, and when we descended three hours later they were on their way home, having spent precious learning time cutting grass in the school yard or the teacher’s garden rather than studying in the school hall! Start the hike from Boma Street in Morogoro, and expect to climb about three hours. It is possible to stay overnight and pitch your tent at Morning site. There is a guard present;
Lupanga Peak is the majestic and highest summit above Morogoro – to reach it, expect a serious hike of about six to seven hours climb, and start in the earliest light to escape the heat. The trail is very exposed in the upper part, and dangerous when wet. While climbing up through farmland for the first two hours, you reach a lovely waterfall with the possibility to camp, and then climb for the rest of the hike through dense forest. If you do not make it all the way up to the peak, there is a great view point approximately one hour below the summit, which is rewarding and well worth the effort. A Forest permit is required, and a guide strongly recommended. The hike starts from the Headquarters of the Uluguru/Eastern Arc Mountain Forest Protection Programme right above Morogoro;
Service Box
Season: The steep fields of the Wa-Uluguru are greenest and thus form the most amazing landscape picture after the rains in March and April. The region is interesting to visit all year round, Hululu water falls, the river next to the camping in Bunduki/Vinile, as well as the described source on Lukwangule plateau hold water all year round; During the rains, roads require a 4x4 vehicle;
Maps: Tanzania 1:50000, Sheet 201/1, Mgeta; Sheet 183/3, Morogoro; These good quality, even though outdated maps from the 1980th are available in the shop in the back yard of the Government’s Survey and Mapping Division on Kivukoni Seafront in Dar es Salaam, for 4000TzSh, open Monday to Friday 8am to 3.30pm;
Webpages: About the matrilineal traditions, female adolescent rites and reproductive health of young Wa-Uluguru women: www.hsph.harvard.edu/takemi/RP100.pdf; An excellent description of additional hikes has been compiled by the Wildlife Conservation Society WCST: www.africanconservation.com/uluguru/; About the Eastern Arc Mountains Biodiversity protection programme: www.easternarc.org;
Transport: To reach Kibaoni/Mgeta by your own car, follow the new road from Morogoro until Sangasanga. Turn left, crossing the valley bottom until Mzumbe University complex. Continue along the foot of the mountains to the turn off to Mlali, and then the increasingly windy and steep road into the Uluguru Mountains. In Kibaoni/Mgeta either turn left into the side valley of Bunduki/Vinile, or continue straight along the main road to Nyandira and Tchenzema. The main road has recently been rehabilitated with support of the French Embassy in Tanzania, and is in a good state. The last bit from Tchenzema to Tchenzema mission is rarely driven by a car, and requests a 4x4 car. From Morogoro to Tchenzema there are also Dala Dalas commuting. Head out early. Overnight, leave your car with a hired local guard. Young men will easily offer to do so. To return from Nyingwa or Lanzi on the Eastern side of the Uluguru Mountains by public transport is time consuming.
Guides: An excellent guide we can recommend from personal experience is Charles Masunzu, originating from Mwanza, who has acquired great knowledge of trails, accommodation, people and traditions in the Uluguru Mountains during his study times. He speaks good English; Tel. 0787 46 73 21, Charlesmasunzu@yahoo.com; The cultural tourism programme for the Uluguru Mountains is located on Rwagasore Street leaving of Old Dar es Salaam road just next to the hospital, about 50m along the road to your right in a flowery yard. Charles, as well as Maliganya Tel. 0745 97 08 38 do work there. Prior arrangement is essential, as the guides close down their office at any time or day when they have guests to guide. They can also arrange transport.
Fees: To stay and hike through the forestry reserve, you need a permit issued by the forestry authority in Morogoro The signposted office is situated on the access road from the Dar es Salaam to Iringa/Dodoma road down to the city centre, next to various overland bus stations, on your left when entering the city. It is 3000Tz per person per day . You are supposed to carry the yellow receipt with you. Contrary to what some guides may tell you, the forestry authorities in Bunduki/Vinile cannot issue receipts, and it is therefore much preferable to pay in Morogoro. For inquiries, call, Miala, Tel. 0748 32 81 91 or Mkoba 0748 58 72 05; In the village where you start your hike or stay overnight, you are supposed to pay a village development fee of about 2000TzSh per person and day. In Tchenzema, villagers invest the money into their dispensary, in Vinile into their school. Village development fees are paid to the village chairman/woman. Villagers will always point about his or her whereabouts. The system of village development fees with the intention to create income for the local population from tourism, has only recently been introduced and is in an experimental phase. Insist on receiving a receipt, be explained or shown where and how the money is invested, and if the amount requested to you seems too high, say so. If you get approached by another village you pass by on your hike to pay a second development fee, show your receipt and stay firm on paying only one fee per day.
Food and Accommodation: The Forest Administration runs a lovely and shady but simple campsite about 1km East of Bunduki centre, on the edge of a forest, next to the river. The river forms a little basin to swim next to the camping, that many years ago gave reason to the local German Coffee planters to build a weekend house next to it. Now, a collaborator of the Forest Administration lives in this building, supervising the camping. His family is more than ready to cook local food and roast delicious corn for you for a price up to you to decide. You might have to provide cooking oil (available in the village shop). The camping site is included in the permit fee you pay to the forest administration in Morogoro.
The Sokoine University of Morogoro runs a Research Station with a Guesthouse on a little hill at the entrance of Nyandira. Rooms are simple and clean with shared toilets/showers, there are outdoor tables under a big Makuti roof, and reception is friendly. There is no restaurant. Overnight stay without breakfast is 2500 TzSh per person (Jan. 2006). Tel. 023260 50 11 (Office), Tel Mobile 0745 966256 (Solomon)
Located in a former German run Coffee plantation mansion, the Catholic Mission at the far end of Mchenzema rents out a few rooms to guests. The place with its old and thick walled buildings and carefully maintained gardens is atmospheric and offers a great view over the valley. The mission is run by nuns, however for Sunday mass Father Moses (Tel. Mobile 0787 12 39 75) climbs up by motor bike from Morogoro. Rooms are 2000TsSh with shared toilets/showers per person per night.
The Wa-Uluguru people raise – unlike in many other parts of Tanzania – pigs. Each day, one or two of these pigs are led to the village centres and slaughtered, and from the early afternoon to evening hours, fresh and delicious roasted pork – also known as “kiti moto” - is available (2000TzSh per kilo). You choose yourself which lean or fat piece you would like. Locally grown vegetable and fruit (look out for peaches) are delicious and before you leave the Uluguru, it is well worth buying some stocks on the street side markets to take home. Local shops sell little else than dried biscuits suitable for hikers, so better stock up in Morogoro centre, where a couple of Supermarkets (Pira’s) have a good selection of packed and dried food.
Climbing up to Lukwangule Plateau, you cross a little stream in the forest. On the plateau, about 1km from the ridge, a little channel holds water all year round, too. Both places are suitable to replenish your water bottles. Carry some disinfectant tablets with you. To protect the remaining forests and fauna, the forest administration runs a campaign not to light fires. Therefore it is important to give a good example and take a little camping stove up to Lukwangule Plateau to cook your dinner instead of lighting a fire.
Danger and Annoyances: Situated more than 2000m above sea level, nights on the Lukwangule Plateau get cool to cold. Take a fleece and a tent or bivouac sac with you if you plan to stay overnight. About village development fees see above.
The Uluguru are the closest mountains to Dar es Salaam. Despite this they are widely unknown to Tanzanians and internationals living in the metropolis. Why? The Uluguru are stunningly beautiful, and easily accessible. They are also the water castle of Dar es Salaam and a global biodiversity hotspot - both aspects are now under threat. Community based tourism could make a difference. There are hundreds of kilometres of footpaths crisscrossing the Uluguru Mountains. They connect the villages and isolated farmsteads with their fields, and each other. According to this logic, you can design your own hike. Forests, be they plantations or natural ones, are very dense, and you are well advised to enquire as to which are the frequently used path. To set you on your way with we checked a few routes out for you.
Through the Garden Eden
Hike from the forest administration campsite in Bunduki/Vinile to the Hululu Waterfalls and back along the fields of the Wa-Uluguru people on the opposite valley flank (2-3 hours)
To the impressive Hululu waterfalls, return from the Vinile campsite to the main road, and steadily climb up the valley for about 2km, until the road becomes a trail. After another 1km the trail crosses a bridge. Turn left immediately after the bridge, climb up the steep slope along the natural forest border, and when you see the waterfall glancing through the trees, descend an even steeper path to the foot of the fall. To return, you either follow the same route back, or you climb further up the main valley for another couple of kilometres, until you can cross the stream and traverse level on the opposite site of the valley and walk out of the valley along foot paths until you stand high above the campsite, from where you descend. Local farmers will be more than willing to point out the way to you.
In the middle ranges of the Uluguru mountains, everything seems to be grown – glaring green maize; fields over and over with red tomatoes, that people carry in huge baskets on their heads to the local market; sweet wild peaches and prunes, thick banana trees…and in between, well hidden stand the mud huts of the Wa-Uluguru people, a matrilineal tribe of Tanzania. When we passed one of these huts a familiar smell caught our attention: was it coffee? Yes it was! We stuck our head into the hut and shouted “Hodi”, and an elderly lady welcomed us, carefully roasting coffee! Her family had saved some of the coffee plants that only some 30 years ago had covered the slopes of the Uluguru but now have gone. In 1890, Jesuit missionaries in the Uluguru Mountains were the first to grow coffee in Tanzania. They had brought the coffee from La Reunion! We asked the lady if we were allowed to take a picture of her roasting coffee. Yes, she said, but for a fee. In good Tanzanian tradition, we negotiated an acceptable price, and the lady disappeared, only to come back in her best headscarf and pose like a Hollywood star. And of course we left with a few delicious beans in our pockets as emergency food along the way!
Stunning Views
Hike from the forest administration campsite in Bunduki/Vinile to the ridge between North and South Uluguru, the forest reserve, and back along the valley bottom (3-4 hours)
For a slightly longer hike rewarded with great views – on a clear day as far down as Dar es Salaam, start from the Vinile Forest Administration building opposite the campsite (signposted), follow the road that steadily climbs up the slope South (to the right) of to the Community Forest (partly plantation) until you reach the pass in the ridge marking the border between the North and South Uluguru Mountains. On the pass, leave the road, and follow a footpath more or less level along different fields first on the right side of the ridge, then on the left side along an increasingly narrower path and finally climbing up, until reaching after about 2km the boundary of the forest reserve, with some newly planted boundary tree seedlings. Return by descending into the valley ground and walk out until you reach the campsite.
On the day we climbed up through the community forest it was swarming with women and children. It is the day when villagers from places further down where all forests have been cut, are allowed to collect firewood. Only dead wood is allowed – as there is a huge demand and people in their need are inventive, it is not easy to implement these rules, Mr. Mpangala of the forest administration explains to us. And indeed we saw youngsters climbing high up on trees to cut off the last branches of trees that obviously had died of the effect of lower branches being cut off. Therefore the administration with the community has set strict regulations: collection is only allowed on two days, and only by girls and women. “They are far less destructive than men”, Mr. Mpangala laughingly admitted. The Uluguru Forests form part of the Eastern Arc Mountains and are thus not only essential for the water supply of Morogoro, the surrounding villages and the water castle of the 4 Mio city of Dar es Salaam, but a biodiversity hotspot and thus a heritage of global importance and immeasurable value. The German colonial government established forest reserves that were strictly prohibited to the local population. Later on pressure on the forests increased dramatically, until in the lower regions no forests were left, and only the mountain ridges and summits were still tree covered. The Tanzanian Forest administration in the 1970th then pulled the emergency break and planted many, many kilometres of Eucalyptus trees to form a demarcation line – those who were, and still are caught logging inside these trees, risks to see prison from the inside. So, the forest reserves could be kept more or less under protection, large forests in the North East Ulugurus outside these reserves have completely disappeared over the last 20 years, and with it its streams and rivers that were common to the people of Morogoro when they looked up to their Uluguru mountains. Sadly, on each square metre of former forest, only one or two maize plants are growing. Production is extremely low, and despite the Wa-Uluguru people cultivating ever steeper fields they do not manage to feed their growing population year round and sell surpluses for much needed cash income. The local forest administration, with the support of Care and the Tanzanian Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania WCST try to reverse these trends now. Indeed the forest administration needs support: there are only two trained foresters with one motorbike in charge for the whole Uluguru Forests! One programme component supports local tourism, and therefore the above camping site has been built.
Cool and Beautiful
Hike from Tchenzema to the Lukwangule Plateau (It is possible to climb on the plateau and return to Tchenzema or to cross on the Eastern side of the Uluguru Mountains in a day. Alternatively, camp overnight on the plateau and return or continue the following day)
From the little market in Tchenzema, climb up the trail behind the hill side houses climbing up on the left side and then on the ridge of a well visible spur leading to the forest reserve boundary. All villagers in Tchenzema will easily point out the way to Lukwangule Plateau to you. Follow the well visible path climbing through the forest almost along the fall line, until after 2 to 3 hours climb from the village you step on the open plateau. Follow the path across the plateau, until after about 1km it splits into two. The left one leads to Nyingwa, the right on to Lanzi.
The natural forest you pass through, and even more the ones on the Lukwangule Plateau are fantastic: impassably dense, the ones on the plateau are also wearing beards of mosses in their branches and patches of red parasite plants in the crowns spot the immense canopy. The open landscape is dotted by a special grass building little hills, swampy throughout most of the year, but drying out before the rainy season. Parts are infested by ferns, that grow faster and bigger than everything else when local hunters set fire to the grass to shoot fleeing animals - the anti fire campaigns of the forest administration still has a long way to go. On the way up we met two men with heavy baskets on their heads, full of fresh plums they had collected on the other side of the mountains and were hoping to sell for a better price in Tchenzema. They were not the only one we met: like little caravans, people cross the plateau with loads on their heads or backs from one side to the other, still faster than we ever managed to move. While with the sun approaching the horizon, we had the plateau for ourselves. We climbed up a hill next to the wooded slope and counted the different ridges in ever fainter blue and grey tones towards the horizon – there were almost a dozen.
On our way back from the Lukwangule plateau, we met a farmer carrying home tree stems to renew his pig shed. We came into discussions, and at some point our guide Charles wanted to know it exactly: are the Wa-Uluguru really matrilineal? Yes were we told, land is inherited from the mothers to the daughters, where as men can acquire land only by buying it. True or not, but many of the Wa-Uluguru women we met seemed in their behaviour and expressions to demonstrate a far stronger self confidence than else where in Tanzania, and easily engaged into conversations with hikers. But our interlocutor pointed out another difference, too: Among the Wa-Uluguru, men and women would only have one spouse, and the wide spread polygamy in Tanzania would be largely unknown to them – a fact the ladies of our group rather liked!
Day Hikes from Morogoro: Morning site and Lupanga Peak
Morning site, a semi abandoned hostel of the University, with a great view over Morogoro, used to be a fantastic resort from German Colonial times. It then had been surrounded by dense forests, and a drivable road led all the way up. The road is now in bad shape, and the forest is pushed way above the site, with erosion having left its ugly scares on the intensively farmed steep slopes. Look out for Avocado trees on your way up! If you are lucky you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables on the way, and early morning dozens of women will meet you descending carrying on their heads heavy baskets of banana to the market! Also catch a glimpse into the local school half way up – there is hardly any furniture! Last time on our way up we met crowds of school children with machetes on their way to school, and when we descended three hours later they were on their way home, having spent precious learning time cutting grass in the school yard or the teacher’s garden rather than studying in the school hall! Start the hike from Boma Street in Morogoro, and expect to climb about three hours. It is possible to stay overnight and pitch your tent at Morning site. There is a guard present;
Lupanga Peak is the majestic and highest summit above Morogoro – to reach it, expect a serious hike of about six to seven hours climb, and start in the earliest light to escape the heat. The trail is very exposed in the upper part, and dangerous when wet. While climbing up through farmland for the first two hours, you reach a lovely waterfall with the possibility to camp, and then climb for the rest of the hike through dense forest. If you do not make it all the way up to the peak, there is a great view point approximately one hour below the summit, which is rewarding and well worth the effort. A Forest permit is required, and a guide strongly recommended. The hike starts from the Headquarters of the Uluguru/Eastern Arc Mountain Forest Protection Programme right above Morogoro;
Service Box
Season: The steep fields of the Wa-Uluguru are greenest and thus form the most amazing landscape picture after the rains in March and April. The region is interesting to visit all year round, Hululu water falls, the river next to the camping in Bunduki/Vinile, as well as the described source on Lukwangule plateau hold water all year round; During the rains, roads require a 4x4 vehicle;
Maps: Tanzania 1:50000, Sheet 201/1, Mgeta; Sheet 183/3, Morogoro; These good quality, even though outdated maps from the 1980th are available in the shop in the back yard of the Government’s Survey and Mapping Division on Kivukoni Seafront in Dar es Salaam, for 4000TzSh, open Monday to Friday 8am to 3.30pm;
Webpages: About the matrilineal traditions, female adolescent rites and reproductive health of young Wa-Uluguru women: www.hsph.harvard.edu/takemi/RP100.pdf; An excellent description of additional hikes has been compiled by the Wildlife Conservation Society WCST: www.africanconservation.com/uluguru/; About the Eastern Arc Mountains Biodiversity protection programme: www.easternarc.org;
Transport: To reach Kibaoni/Mgeta by your own car, follow the new road from Morogoro until Sangasanga. Turn left, crossing the valley bottom until Mzumbe University complex. Continue along the foot of the mountains to the turn off to Mlali, and then the increasingly windy and steep road into the Uluguru Mountains. In Kibaoni/Mgeta either turn left into the side valley of Bunduki/Vinile, or continue straight along the main road to Nyandira and Tchenzema. The main road has recently been rehabilitated with support of the French Embassy in Tanzania, and is in a good state. The last bit from Tchenzema to Tchenzema mission is rarely driven by a car, and requests a 4x4 car. From Morogoro to Tchenzema there are also Dala Dalas commuting. Head out early. Overnight, leave your car with a hired local guard. Young men will easily offer to do so. To return from Nyingwa or Lanzi on the Eastern side of the Uluguru Mountains by public transport is time consuming.
Guides: An excellent guide we can recommend from personal experience is Charles Masunzu, originating from Mwanza, who has acquired great knowledge of trails, accommodation, people and traditions in the Uluguru Mountains during his study times. He speaks good English; Tel. 0787 46 73 21, Charlesmasunzu@yahoo.com; The cultural tourism programme for the Uluguru Mountains is located on Rwagasore Street leaving of Old Dar es Salaam road just next to the hospital, about 50m along the road to your right in a flowery yard. Charles, as well as Maliganya Tel. 0745 97 08 38 do work there. Prior arrangement is essential, as the guides close down their office at any time or day when they have guests to guide. They can also arrange transport.
Fees: To stay and hike through the forestry reserve, you need a permit issued by the forestry authority in Morogoro The signposted office is situated on the access road from the Dar es Salaam to Iringa/Dodoma road down to the city centre, next to various overland bus stations, on your left when entering the city. It is 3000Tz per person per day . You are supposed to carry the yellow receipt with you. Contrary to what some guides may tell you, the forestry authorities in Bunduki/Vinile cannot issue receipts, and it is therefore much preferable to pay in Morogoro. For inquiries, call, Miala, Tel. 0748 32 81 91 or Mkoba 0748 58 72 05; In the village where you start your hike or stay overnight, you are supposed to pay a village development fee of about 2000TzSh per person and day. In Tchenzema, villagers invest the money into their dispensary, in Vinile into their school. Village development fees are paid to the village chairman/woman. Villagers will always point about his or her whereabouts. The system of village development fees with the intention to create income for the local population from tourism, has only recently been introduced and is in an experimental phase. Insist on receiving a receipt, be explained or shown where and how the money is invested, and if the amount requested to you seems too high, say so. If you get approached by another village you pass by on your hike to pay a second development fee, show your receipt and stay firm on paying only one fee per day.
Food and Accommodation: The Forest Administration runs a lovely and shady but simple campsite about 1km East of Bunduki centre, on the edge of a forest, next to the river. The river forms a little basin to swim next to the camping, that many years ago gave reason to the local German Coffee planters to build a weekend house next to it. Now, a collaborator of the Forest Administration lives in this building, supervising the camping. His family is more than ready to cook local food and roast delicious corn for you for a price up to you to decide. You might have to provide cooking oil (available in the village shop). The camping site is included in the permit fee you pay to the forest administration in Morogoro.
The Sokoine University of Morogoro runs a Research Station with a Guesthouse on a little hill at the entrance of Nyandira. Rooms are simple and clean with shared toilets/showers, there are outdoor tables under a big Makuti roof, and reception is friendly. There is no restaurant. Overnight stay without breakfast is 2500 TzSh per person (Jan. 2006). Tel. 023260 50 11 (Office), Tel Mobile 0745 966256 (Solomon)
Located in a former German run Coffee plantation mansion, the Catholic Mission at the far end of Mchenzema rents out a few rooms to guests. The place with its old and thick walled buildings and carefully maintained gardens is atmospheric and offers a great view over the valley. The mission is run by nuns, however for Sunday mass Father Moses (Tel. Mobile 0787 12 39 75) climbs up by motor bike from Morogoro. Rooms are 2000TsSh with shared toilets/showers per person per night.
The Wa-Uluguru people raise – unlike in many other parts of Tanzania – pigs. Each day, one or two of these pigs are led to the village centres and slaughtered, and from the early afternoon to evening hours, fresh and delicious roasted pork – also known as “kiti moto” - is available (2000TzSh per kilo). You choose yourself which lean or fat piece you would like. Locally grown vegetable and fruit (look out for peaches) are delicious and before you leave the Uluguru, it is well worth buying some stocks on the street side markets to take home. Local shops sell little else than dried biscuits suitable for hikers, so better stock up in Morogoro centre, where a couple of Supermarkets (Pira’s) have a good selection of packed and dried food.
Climbing up to Lukwangule Plateau, you cross a little stream in the forest. On the plateau, about 1km from the ridge, a little channel holds water all year round, too. Both places are suitable to replenish your water bottles. Carry some disinfectant tablets with you. To protect the remaining forests and fauna, the forest administration runs a campaign not to light fires. Therefore it is important to give a good example and take a little camping stove up to Lukwangule Plateau to cook your dinner instead of lighting a fire.
Danger and Annoyances: Situated more than 2000m above sea level, nights on the Lukwangule Plateau get cool to cold. Take a fleece and a tent or bivouac sac with you if you plan to stay overnight. About village development fees see above.
No comments:
Post a Comment