Cruising Lake Tangayika on the MV Liemba

The MV Liemba, a large passenger boat commuting on lake Tanganyika from Kigoma down to the South tip of the Lake into Zambia once a week, was brought into Tanzania by the Germans, it was submerged on purpose when the Germans had to flee the arriving British troops in the First World War, years later lifted by the British, and recently rehabilitated with Danish support. Travelling on the Liemba along the largely untouched Eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, observing the trade between villagers and fishermen which is performed on the lake, as there are only very few ports deep enough for the Liemba to actually reach the shores, is one of the most enjoyable and exclusive way to discover Tanzania. It is well worth to book a first class cabin and to stock well on some fruit, while the on board restaurant prepares nice Tanzanian dishes and even gets fresh meat on board from the villages. You can get off the Liemba to visit Mahale National Park and track the resident Chimpanzee population (about 24h from Kigoma) , or go all the way down to Kasanga (about 2-3 days from Kigoma), where a daily Landcruiser connects to Sumbawanga town. There is also a very simple guesthouse in Kasanga, a Mission where possibly you can get accommodation, and a local guide that offers boat cum hiking trips into nearby Zambia to the second highest water falls in Africa, well worth the effort (day trip);

Your own temporary Holiday House at South Beach – the Bungalows in Pachikonjo

Vivienne and her husband rent three simple bungalows with double beds, a bathroom with cold running water, and lovely terraces over viewing the Indian Ocean high above the beach. Just behind the bungalows a little kitchen area is established, where very friendly staff provides a charcoal grill, hot water as well as a fridge to keep your food stocks fresh. A steep trail leads down to the virgin beach, which allows for long walks in each direction, provided the tide is out. The waves can be quite rough when the tide is in, and allow even for some body surfing! Sitting on the terrace during sun set, four white headed sea eagles passed right in front of us – an absolutely amazing sight! And just below us, in the coastal bush resident monkeys vocally reminded us that this is their territory, when we descended with our dog to the beach! For bird watchers: there are black storks resident to a little wetland just when the access road reaches the main road to Dar es Salaam and endless trails along the fields of local farmers allow for extended walks – there is a lot of Okra grown!
To rent a bungalow, contact Vivienne, Tel. Mobile 0754 32 42 46 or Peter, Tel. Mobile 0754 88 07 59; A bungalow costs 50US$ per night; To reach Pachikonjo, follow the road from the ferry in Dar es Salaam South, direction Amani Beach; However you pass the turn off to the left to Amani Beach, cross another five villages, and then at 46km from the ferry, at the end of a village, turn left where a small signpost close to the ground indicates Pachikonjo in yellow letters. From this turn off, it is about 1km to the bungalows; Take your own food stocks, mosquito net and towels.

Sharing the life of a Tanzanian Mountain community - A warm welcome at the Tchenzema Catholic Mission in the Uluguru Mountains

At night it is pitch dark in the mountains and villages around the Catholic Mission in Tchenzema at the end of the road winding its way along the West side of the Uluguru Mountains. The little generator, which allows father Moses to watch his favourite TV series, but more importantly to watch the news and play the keyboards during Sunday mess, has just gone off, and with it the last light. The Waluguru people have no choice – they get up with first light, and to bed shortly after last light. Tchenzema Mission was established in 1948 in the thick walled buildings of a former German Coffee Farm. When last year the bishop visited, doors and frames were painted in bright blue. The two resident nuns maintain a little garden and raise chicken around the former farmer’s house; father Moses adores his two sandy coloured dogs. The couple of rooms they rent out to guests come very simple: a bed, a cupboard with a pile of song sheets, a candle and a bucket of water when ever you need it. However, sitting on the little terrace, lulled in by bird song, with the morning mist slowly disappearing and allowing more and more of a view on terraced hills, villages in banana groves and the dark green of the forest is hard to beat, particularly if you have brought your camping equipment to brew a nice cup of coffee and a good breakfast. The stream of visitors to the mission is steady, and thus gives an excellent insight in rural Tanzanian life for any visitor. Father Moses on top is an excellent analyst, and more than willing to explain about his people’s life and challenges, but also his views and initiatives on how to address the problems.We climb the trail behind the mission, which once was planned to be a road, but never finished, as the money for the bridge across the stream mysteriously had disappeared, and everybody wants to talk to father Moses. The “Pombe”, locally brewed alcohol, which was generously drunk during the evening’s traditional girls’ inauguration, has loosened the tongue of this otherwise very modest and hard working mountain people, of which some still follow matrimonial rules. The next day we climb to the end of the dilapidated road, and reach a beautifully located graveyard on a little pass, amidst a sprawling village. What ever the people need here, they carry it up on their heads. We have a little rest, and people stop work in the near by fields to watch these two Wazungus. However, the landlord of the near by house pays us a visit and welcomes us most warmly. There are hundreds of kilometres of walking trails through the steep fields or up through the mountain forest onto Lukwangule plateau, a hardly touched high altitude landscape on more than 2000m, with fantastic views on the virgin forests.Father Moses mess on Sunday is another thing not to be missed. A highly gifted choir is singing, dancing and accompanied by drums and whistles, the Church songs are enriched with elements of traditional music, and sound great. All the ladies are dressed in colourful kangas, sitting separate from the men, children join for the songs and leave into the church yard for games during the prayers. Father Moses returns with two little baskets full of small coins - despite the difficult living conditions, mess visitors contribute each week end about 20US$ to the community!

Good to know: You reach Tchenzema Catholic Mission at the end of the road winding its way along the West side of the Uluguru Mountains. From Morogoro head direction Iringa, turn left at the signpost for the Mzumbe University and then continue to Mgeta, from where there is only one road continuing into the mountains. The last few kilometres of road are rarely driven, and absolutely to be avoided after rains, as they quickly become very slippery and dangerous. In this case leave your car in the last village and hire a guard, and walk to the mission. Take your own mosquito net, several metres of string to fix it, torches and food stocks, except vegetables that you can buy locally. Contact Father Moses in advance, Tel. Mobile, Tel. 0787 12 39 75

The Best treats in Stonetown

The Zanzibar Serena Inn (Tel. 024 223 35 87 or 024 223 30 19; e-mail: zserena@zanzinet.com) does an excellent breakfast buffet. Come early in order to get a table at one of the open windows facing the beach, to watch the incoming dhows from their night catch trips.

Excellent, even though pricy food is served in the Stone Town Inn in Beyt al Chai (Tel. 0774 44 41 11 or 0773 16 91 11; e-mail: reservations@stonetownin.com; www.stonetowninn.com) just opposite the Serena Inn. Try the Sea food linguine, and the chocolate mousse! If you then still feel like Italiann ice cream and coffee, go accross the road into the sea front Amore Mio Coffee place, and let spoil yourself by real Italien treats - the palce indeed is Italian run, and also makes decent pasta and pizza, even though not as outstanding as some of the ice cream.

The restaurant of the Mtoni Marine Hotel (024 225 01 17 or 024 225 01 40 or 0713 32 32 26 or 0757 46 33 99; e-mail: mtoni@zanizbar.cc; www.mtoni.com) about 2km North of town (you can jump on any Dala Dala leaving the town on the road towards the North along the shore) has an excellent Zan Sushi Bar on the beach - the set up is idyllic, and if you are lucky to get the master sushi chef, food is outstanding. Next to Mtoni Marine there is also a small mosque with a little terrace to oversee the fishing harbour, and the ruins of one of the Sultants Palace, where Princess Salme is said to have lived as a child.

Slightly further North to the Mtoni Marine Hotel, the Hakuna Matata Beach Lodge (Tel. 0777 45 48 92; e-mail: info@zanzibar-resort.com; www.hakuna-matata-beach-lodge.com/ and Restaurant does Seafood and Fish Fondues, as well as smoked fish specialities.

Mrembo (Tel. 0777 43 01 17) in Cathedral Street in Stonetown offers Zanzibari and Western Beauty treatments using the island’s natural ingredients including massage and Henna paintings; You’ll be also served ginger and lemongrass tea and listen to local traditional Taarab music.

A nice half day excursion out of Stonetown is to the Mbweni Ruins Hotel (Tel. 024 223 54 78/79; e-mail: hotel@mbweni.com) – take any Dala Dala Bus direction airport, and leave at the Police station where there is a sign indicating the way to Mbweni Ruins Hotel. Under old trees and through districts where obviously the rich of Stonetown live, you pass a beautiful old Anglican Church semi overgrown but still in use, and finally reach the Botanical Garden and the ruins of what used to be some 200 years a British run school and hostel for freed slave girls. The place is beautiful and peaceful. There is also a bar on a newly built pier into the sea;

For late night drinks, chill outs and dancing, try the Dharma Lounge in the Culture Musical Club on Vuga road.

Bi Kidude (www.asoldasmytongue.net), an over 90 years old Zanzibar lady, is THE taraab music legend of the island, still performing regularely. Against all odds, she devoted her live to taraab music, which has its origin in the merge of arab, omani and swahili traditional music, and contributed much to the role model of women in traditional Zanzibar. She performs in the Sauti ya Busara festival, occasionally in Mercury's restaurant next to the ferry port, and on private occasions - keep your eyes open for the fascinating lady crossing your way, or sitting in the Bi Kidude restaurant sipping a cold beer and enjoying a cigarette.

Well worth a visit are all museums of town, the House of Wonders, telling the history of the Swahili traders travelling with the monsoon winds, the Palace museum telling the history of the sultants, and the recently renovated Old Hospital with a whole room devoted to Princess Salme are all located on the sea front.

Overnight stay in Dar es Salaam

The Swiss Garden Hotel on Mindu Street in Upanga (022 215 32 19; 022 215 27 59; swissgarden@bluewin.ch; www.swisshostel.net) owned and managed by a Swiss-Tanzanian couple, offers good rooms, good buffet food, a fast internet and friendly service, for about 60US$ per night.

Cheaper accommodation down town is available in YMCA and YWCA.

Gombe Stream National Park

Meeting face to face with the Chimps in Gombe Stream National Park (Entry fee is a hefty 100 US$ per person/24 hours) is fantastic, even if you are not a great ape fan in normal life. The National Park, which is tiny, is beautifully located on the slopes of Lake Tanganyika, and was the research grounds of famous Jane Goodall, who did ground breaking analysis on Chimps behaviour and abilities. Her books are well worth to read. However, as much as then, to reach the place, is still an adventure in itself today.

Best is, if you can hire a boat to go to Gombe Stream early in the morning and in the afternoon go for a first guided walk to the Chimps, and for a second walk the next day early in the morning, before you return to Kigoma; The guest house of the National Park (20 US$ per person; In case it should be full, there is also a little barrack with about 4 of 5 little rooms, for about half of the price; ) has only two rooms, but with a beautiful - Baboon save terrace - and you can swim in the lake just a few meters in front of you; Take your own food, there is no shop or restaurant in the park.

Maybe you can arrange a boat with Winchi, Kibirizi Beach, 0741 68 77 61, only Kiswahili speaking; He charged in 2005 90’000 TzSh for a return trip, including an overnight stay, in Gombe; George Kazumbe, 0745 662 129, is said to offer transport for 100US$, with pick up anywhere at the beach (eg. Lake Tanganyika Beach Hotel). If you cannot organize transport ahead, take a taxi down to the fishing harbor and haggle the price, but expect no cheaper than 100 US$ for the boat return trip; Alternatively, you could go by lake taxi, but it takes a long time, and you will be sitting on the edge of a boat for many hours;

A word of care: In case you see a thunderstorm developping over Lake Tanganyika, keep off the water, even if it means that you stay a day longer! Also be strongly advised not to go any closer to the chimps than instructed, even if your guide does go closer; Be at all times attentive not to end up between two chimps; An attack by a chimp can easily be deadly. Around the guest house do not eat any food outside, there are loads of dangerous baboons around! No crocodiles and hippos reported so far, but ask again with the rangers before you go for a swim in the fantastic clear waters of Lake Tanganyika spreading in from of you!

Little discovered South West of Tanzania : The Mbeya and Lake Nyasa Region

Mbeya

It is a long journey to reach the wider Mbeya region of Tanzania, despite one of the main roads crossing the African continent North South passes through Mbeya, from Dar es Salaam, leading further into Zambia. An enjoyable alternative to reach the region form Dar es Salaam is by the TAZARA railway, built by the Chinese in the 1980th, probably one of the youngest railway lines in the world (www.tazara.co.tz).

Lake Nyasa

On Lake Nyassa (former Lake Malawi), 130km from Mbeya, Matema Lake Shore Resort, run by the Evangelistic Church (Tel. 025 250 41 78; e-mail: mec@maf.or.tz; there are rooms and a campsite available) has a reputation of being one of the most beautiful places in Tanzani. Lake Nyassa is 580km long, 700m deep and lying right in the African Rift Valley system. The resort is on the foot of the Livingstone Mountain Range, which tops up to 3000m above sea level and make for a great hiking area. About five kilometres from the Mission the famous red and cream coloured pottery of the Wakisi tribe people is made.

Mufindi Highland Lodge

(Tel. 022 286 23 57; Tel. Mobile 0784 23 74 22; e-mail. fox@safaricamps.info; www.tanzaniassafaris.info ; Residents about 65US$ per person and night; Horserides 5US$ per ride)

The lodge, run by Foxes senior, is certainly one of the pearls in the foxes emporium! Located on a hill ridge, with great views over a lake and rolling hills, ample (and very reasonnalby priced) opportunity to go for horserising, great food and always a fire running in the fire place to break the chill of the evening, this is a very un-African place to stay, but great to chill out, and listen to the owners stories of the early times of tourims devleopment in Tanznia! Access leads through extensive tea plantations. Warmly recommended!